Old-School Houston Burger Revisited

There are many in town who believe that the best burger around is Lankford Grocery in Midtown. However, I have never been one of the Lankford lovers. It had been over a decade since I experienced the over-cooked burgers they offered, and felt it was time to revisit for another try.

Some burger buddies joined for this adventure, and I pledged to keep an open mind and remain objective on this visit. Lankford is popular with the lunch crowd, so we got an early start. I was pleased that some work had been done to the rustic setting, without taking away from its charm, and the floors are now a little more even. Perusing their extensive burger menu, I placed my order for the Single Burger with cheese, bacon, lettuce, onion, and a light smear of mayonnaise.

The burger and fries came out, and I was impressed by the burger's thicker and jucier looking patty than I remembered from my previous visit, and the presence of (my favorite) shredded cheddar cheese. I was not impressed by the oversized slab of wilted lettuce adorning my burger, or the fact that the bland bun fell apart with my first bite. The burger was, once again, over-cooked, and things continued to go downhill.

One of my burger buddies, Mark, had a similar experience and shared that perhaps we forgot to order our burgers cooked to temperature (medium is best), but they all came out pretty much well-done. The hand formed patties were tasty, for sure, but at that temperature it’s hard for a burger to stay moist and delicious. The buns were good, if plain. 

Mark went on to say that Lankford used to appear regularly on “Best Burgers in Houston” lists, and their midtown location was famous for its family-friendly wait staff perhaps and for its wavy, uneven floors. The friendly staff is still there, the floors have been fixed, but are the burgers still best-in-class?   

Lankford Grocery did not succeed in proving to me that they are one of the great burger joints in Houston. I will continue to enjoy my other favorite classic Houston burger spots, and leave Lankford to those of you who enjoy their food.  Maybe I should have tried one of their non-burger menu items.

The Single from Lankford Grocery

The Single from Lankford Grocery

Cheers to Eating More Burgers!

7a.m. - 3p.m. Mon.- Sat., 88 Dennis St., 713-522-9555 $